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Can't print using Simplify3D (ABS wont stick on surface)

I've submitted my subject in the following forum: http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2529

But since i am not sure if there is any of you guys (leapfrog + community) having a simlair problem.


Copy-paste of the situation:

While i am using a feshly installed Simplify3D (tried 2.1.0 and 2.2.2) using the Leapfrog Creatr Dual profile (didn't change any settings) my print just wont stick at the bed...
It does when i am using other software so it is not hardware realated (also changed my kaptop tape).
Even on the first layer, the first bit of print just wont stick to the bed, it's like he is rejecting to stick to it.
I am clueless at this point, what i did notice though was that the height of the first layer was at 70% wich is kinda odd, since it's 200% at slic3r. But i've turned off my printer since i am trying to sort this out for 7 hours straight already!
Anyone here having the same issue or has any possible solution? (all help is apprecaited)
Thanks in advance!


1 person has this problem

The ultimate solution to ABS first layer printing and anti-warping is ABS juice directly on top of glass (don't apply it to the provided tape or kapton as you will have to destroy the tape when getting the model off). Google it and thank me later :)


1 person likes this

You could probably try to match your settings to slic3r and use the 200% initial height. 


I was using Leapfrog print stickers for ABS prints using Simplify3D and the print always sticks so hard the sticker always gets damaged.


Using Kapton tape, I have the same problem as yours. I tried playing around with the settings (Higher Bed Temp (90 C) and larger first layer width). It worked to some extent. The first layer sticks, but after a few layers and the ABS starts to warp, the part starts to come off the build plate.


My solution comes in the form of UHU glue sticks. 


This has worked wonders for me. Just coat the kapton tape generously and the part will stick just enough during the print. Apparently it has just enough stickiness to resist warping. At the end of the print, the part will pop right off, with no damage to the kapton tape. The only downside is that you won't get that glossy bottom like when you use bare kapton. 


My suggestion is to clean the glue after printing to prevent dust and dirt from sticking to the kapton. I use a standard all purpose cleaner (like Formula 409). Re-coat it with these cheap glue sticks just before the print starts and you are all set!


Let me know how you fixed your problem. I would love to know if there are alternative solutions.


Best Regards,


Joe Trisnadi

hello . I had this problem before but now i solve this problem by making a cover for top of my printer ( creatr HS ) same to lpfrg . and now every thing is OK without any glue or another things . i just use of stiker paper and set bed temprature to 80 c . you can test it .

hi

this has nothing to do with the software. you must change your 1st layer height&speed maybe even temp of bed.

when the height is right it will stick, sometimes even too much. you have to try what goes best with your bed setting. ( changing the screw settings of the bed will also make a difference, and dont forget to make the bed perfectly level!) , my bed is slightly bent so some places it sticks better than others. ( yes my glass is bent!! came like this from the factory) 

I tried many foils and must say Kapton is shit! worst of all foils I tried. 

the Avery foil supplied by leapfrog is best. everything sticks on here ( with correct 1st layer height) 

We had a Leapfrog Creatr Dual with a slightly warped glass platform. I know this post is old but i think the best product going to ABS to stick is Buildtak. Bonus is that it works with PLA as well.

Thanks for all the replies, I am still having problems with my printing. The 'not sticking problem' is fixed though, the bed was leveled too high, but now I've leveled it to low, it damages my print stickers and also my prints come out somewhat decent. How can I level it correctly? The bed leveling wizard in Simplify3D doesn't seem to work out that well, also my extruders seem to differ from height wich makes it even more difficult.

We do our leveling manually. Basically we Home the Z Axis, Disable the Motors and move the head around the platform testing various locations until we are happy that we have minimal friction between the nozzles and a piece of paper.


If you have uneven nozzles you need to adjust them so they are perfectly flat.


The manual will show you how to do this, the best way to get both nozzles flat is to use the platform as a flat edge, i guess this will only work if your bed is level to begin with.



Have tried all the above, UHU glue, ABS juice, avery labels, tape and buildtak. Nothing works the print just wont stick, and then to make it worse the second print head catches on the large deposits the first print head makes as it doesn't stick and pulls the deposits that have stuck off. I have spent many days trying to level the bed, and today found that the main carrier was 8mm lower at the back to the front. Had to undo drive belt and align table, then to work out glass is not flat! This is a very expensive paper weight, I think it will be cheaper to purchase another machine, rather than spend the time trying to get this second rate one working! Very disappointed, sad to think that and UP plus 2 worked straight out of the box and never had any of the problems this thing has. I actually wore the extruder out on the plus it did so much work!!!! I have had this piece of crap for over twelve months and haven't had a single print work! Disgusted!

Ross I had exactly all the same problems at first and was also very disappointed. now I have the machine running OK. ( I also think the HS was sent out a bit early)

you are right it does not work out of the box at all..

here how it goes: The glass is bent because the screws are pressing against it. Remove the 4 screws, only shave off the thread that touches the glass, reassemble, the glass will go straight again after a few weeks.( too much horizontal pressure on the glass)

Bed leveling is the most important! 

level the 2 nozzles is just as important! (unscrew one nozzle and level on the leveled bed)

Level bed!

the avery films work best, (well it also depends what material you use)

to get it to stick, the first layer height and speed is critical! again this is a calibration issue. 

Preset speeds are MUCH too fast. go real slow.

A home position 0.1mm over film is ok for a good adherence, then change parameter of first layer height until you find a good setting.

I dont know what you mean with the 8mm difference..?

Oh yes also upgrade all firmwares etc.!

For me none of the material presets from leapfrog for simplify3d worked, this is quite a job to find good settings, mainly too fast and not hot enough, bad cooling settings. forget the basic menu, you really need to dig in the advanced settings.

To get your first layer stick well, don't play too much with the width of the first layer. The machine will automatically use more spacing between the lines and for me this doesn't work. To get the first layer squished on the bed really well, increase the first layer height (I use 175 percent), and give the a slightly negative offset for the Z-axis when starting. To Mark: the bolts of my heated bed do not seem to be touching the glass plate, there is still room for a bit of movement. Yet the build plate seems to be curved. Did you see this as well? Or was there really a tight fit?
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